Rosa and I relocated from Galway Ireland to Tokyo Japan in November of 1998. Being keen lovers of the outdoors, we were thrilled to discover that Japan was a fantastic country for trekking, rock climbing, and camping. While Japan is famously known for mega-cities like Tokyo and Osaka, its countryside is surprisingly sparsely populated. As a volcanic archipelago, approximately 70% of the country is covered by dramatic mountain ranges, with most people living on the few costal plains. With an extraordinary public transportation network that covers even the most remote islands of Japan, and the super fast shinkasen (bullet train) — it is happily possible to escape the world's largest city and get into the mountains even if only just for a weekend.

Having just gotten married in September 2002 in fairy-tale like circumstances in Portofino Italy, Rosa and I decided to escape to the mountains for a long weekend upon returning to Japan for a bit of relaxation and reality. Since the weather outlook was positive, we decided upon the 34 km (21 mile) loop from Kamikochi up to Yari-ga-dake, across the perilous spine of daikiretto then back down into Kamikochi village. Along the way we would also go over Oku-hotaka-dake — Japan's 3rd highest peak at 3190 meters (10466 feet). It is a magnificent hike, at times equally as arduous as it is breathtaking. Kamikochi is situated in what is known as the Japanese Northern Alps — a popular hiking and trekking destination with several peaks over 3000m in height. We departed Tokyo by the overnight bus at around 11pm on Friday October 11th, and arrived at the village of Kamikochi at 8am on the 12th. The day was cold, clear, and promising!

The first day would be very deceptively difficult. It would be a 17 kilometer (10 miles) hike, with a vertical ascent of 1.5 km (4900 ft). What made the day a challenge is that the first 13 kilometers (8 miles) are virtually flat in a river valley. It is only after many hours of walking that you practically smack right into the side of the yet to be climbed mountain with 3 days worth of gear still on your back. While this gave us plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular color of the turning leaves we were ever mindful of the mountains looming tall around us. The longer we hiked along the river, the steeper our ascent was going to be. There were quite a number of people who started along the trail with us enjoying the vibrant foliage, but at every sanso (lodge) along the way, we left behind a good portion that chose to avoid the peaks this late in the season. The fall colors were vivid, and we enjoyed our "warm up" immensely. After about 6 hours of walking, we finally reached the point where we would begin our ascent to the base of Yari-ga-dake. After stopping for a few photographs, we began a 2 hour ascent, zig zagging our way upwards. As we climbed, the air became noticeably thinner and cooler, and patches of early season snow became common. We reached the ridgeline and set up camp around 3 pm, after nearly 9 hours of hiking. We were sore from a long first day, but the view was already worth every ache and pain we'd earned on the way up. After cooking up a couple of freeze dried meals, and enjoying a spectacular sunset, we crawled into our sleeping bags so that we could get en early start for daikiretto and the next day's climbs.

The next morning the watch-alarm went off at 5am, but we were moving slowly that morning and didn't actually break camp until after 7am. After cooking up a quick breakfast, Rosa and I left our bags just off the trail, and climbed Yari-ga-dake as a warm up for the day. Yari-ga-dake, at 3180 meters (10,433 feet) is famous for its unique shape. As with many of the more challenging climbs in Japan, metal ladders are bolted into the face at strategic points in order to make it possible to reach the summit without the need for ropes and climbing gear. This allows anyone with the lungs, guts, and willpower to climb throughout Japan. After making the summit of Yari-san and enjoying the panoramic views, we climbed back down, hoisted our packs, and set off along the ridge. After following the ridge for some time, we entered a roughly 5km span known as daikiretto, a sharp, narrow and particularly treacherous portion of the hike that seems to claim a few lives each year. Given the often hand over foot climbing and permanent ice lodged in the crags, it shouldn't be attempted in foul weather. Luckily for us however, it was another clear bright day, and we could enjoy the stunning views on either side of us as we carefully traversed the ridgeline.

At roughly midday, we came upon the first hut on the ridge, Minami-dake-goya, where we had originally planned to refill our water. Unfortunately the hut was shuttered for the season, and we ate up a lot of precious time melting down a liter and a half of water from snow to refill our bottles. Nevertheless, the sun was bright and the wind not too strong and we could stretch out and enjoy a leisurely lunch as the snow melted on the stove. After the extended break, we pushed on. At around 3pm, after nearly 7 hours of hard trekking along razor sharp ridge lines, ice covered rocks, and a last steep ascent, we came upon the Kita-hotaka-dake hut, a spot where we'd be able to set up a tent. We donned coats and hats as the temperature had dropped significantly, and enjoyed some hot milk as we discussed the outlook for the rest of the day. Seeing as we were behind schedule due to our later than anticipated start and the extended lunch as we melted drinking water, I decided that we should stop here for the night rather than push onto Hotaka-dake-sanso, where we had originally planned to make camp. According to the topo map it looked to be about 2 hours farther down the trail, and night falls early in October. Even stopping a few kilometers earlier than planned, we would have no difficulty getting back to Kamikochi on Monday in time to catch some form of public transportation.

And it was here, just one month after our wedding - that for the briefest of moments - I doubted for the first time the sanity of the woman I had so recently pledged myself to.

Perhaps it was the altitude, or the giddy devil-may-care afterglow of our recent nuptial celebrations, but for some reason Rosa was fanatic in her insistence that we continue onto the Hotaka dake sanso. Knowing that Rosa was no stranger to the outdoors, I was at a loss to follow this logic. With dark approaching, and the temperature already below freezing, there would be no margin of error as we made our way over the broken, slippery terrain. With the ridgeline known to be deadly, and daylight helicopter rescue the only means off the mountain in the event of injury, the risks were not worth it. And so it was, we had our first fight, as husband and wife on a barren, windblown ridgeline in Japan. Fortunately for our relationship, reason prevailed and we agreed to make camp. Still, I couldn't help but wonder why she seemed so intent on testing out the "until death do us part" clause in our still-fresh marital vows. Was it altitude, or desperation? In retrospect it would have made for interesting conversation had I started quoting the bits about "honoring and obeying" her husband... though perhaps in that case I'd never have made it off the mountain to write this story! Anyway, that night after a freeze dried dinner enjoyed while squatting behind boulders to stay out of the wind, we bedded down amidst ice and snow. Prepared as we were, it was comfortable and cozy, despite the howling wind and frigid temperature outside. That evening I drifted off to sleep happy, realizing that I had apparently found my purpose in life: keeping my beautiful Italian mountaineering wife alive and well!

The next morning, we woke up at 5am to find most of our water frozen. After a bit of effort to thaw some ice — we cooked up a hot breakfast and headed off on what we anticipated to be a 9 hour hike back down to Kamikiochi. Before we could begin our steep decent into the village however, we'd have to top Japan's 3rd highest peak, Oku hotaka dake, at 3190 meters (10,466 feet). We had already climbed Fuji-san a couple of years earlier, the tallest peak at 3535 meters (11,598 feet) and our enthusiasm was renewed to travel next to the southern Japanese alps to take in the 2nd highest peak as well.

After Oku-hotaka-dake, the decent was steep and relentless back into Kamikochi. From there, we caught a bus into Matsumoto, which is famous for the exquisite Matusmoto castle, and then a train back to Tokyo that evening.

During the 5.5 years Rosa and I spent living in Japan, we managed to climb at least 14 significant peaks, and trek 100's of kilometers thorough the Japanese countryside. We also discovered with the help of good friends how wonderful the sport climbing routes are in Japan, and that there is unparalleled hospitality offered to foreigners in the rural countryside. If you are lucky enough to visit Japan one day, be sure to plan some time to get out into the countryside! It is a pity if your only perspective on Japan is one of mega-cities and high tech. In June of 2004 Rosa and I moved to Shanghai, China, and are now looking forward to discovering the adventures that country has to offer. You can read about some of our other adventurers in Japan, China, and around the world at www.alan-rosa.com

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Sunrise in the Omega on Day 2.

View of Yari, find the people and ladders.

Rosa and Omega tent on Kitahotaka Dake